Pampering in Mysore

We left the tranquility of the forest for the hustle and bustle of Mysore city. Mysore city is the third largest city in the state of Karnataka, India and was the seat of Mysore Princely Kingdom for nearly six centuries (from 1399 until 1947).

Our first port of call was the Mysore Palace. Mysore Palace was the official residence and seat of power for the Wodeyars, the Maharajas of Mysore. This Palace that we visited was the second palace built as the first one (built in the 14th century) had been crafted from wood and subsequently burnt down. When the second (and current) palace was built (between 1897 and 1912) it was stated that no expense should be spared and the prevailing guideline for the building was that there were to be no flammable materials used for its construction. The result was a building in Indo-Saracenic style that married the different architectural and cultural styles of Hindu, Gothic, Muslim, and Rajput. In terms of elements, we were treated to ornate metal gates, beautiful frescos, pillared halls and domed ceilings, elegant wall paintings, and a seamless infusion of region and mythology. It was definitely one of the most glamorous places we've seen on this trip.

We got to leave our shoes at the front, grab a tape deck tour guide, and meander the velvet rope lined path through the old haunts of the royal family of Mysore.

After we viewed the interior of the palace we were given a little bit of time to wander the extensive grounds that surrounded it. There were a few Hindu temples that we unfortunately didn't have enough time to go into and some gardens.

In Mysore, it is popular to dye the local cows (them being sacred creatures and all) with different spices. As we were driving through the city to the palace, and then later walking the palace grounds, we came upon quite a few of these yellow cows (any white area on the cow had been turned yellow with the application of turmeric powder). The yellow cow happily wandering the palace grounds took a liking to Em and continued to follow her around for a bit, much to the latter's dismay and my amusement.

Mysore continues to provide fuel to my idea that the north and south of India are two totally different countries. Mysore is a pretty prosperous city with universities, thoroughfares, modern malls and American fast food. There was even a Gold's Gym down the block from our hotel. People were more courteous, drivers tended to follow most of the standard rules of the road, and the houses, cars, and shops set along tree lined streets made me feel like I might have been in any old suburb in the States.

For the evening we got to stay at the Mango Hotel and Em and I were about ready to move in. This was probably the most modern of all the places we've stayed so far and a sign that we're changing as we get older. We were ecstatic that the beds were comfortable, the shower had a door, hot water, and a facet you didn't need to hold up to use, and that there was wi-fi in the room. A few years ago we never would have cared about any of this, but now it felt like we were at a five star hotel and it was heavenly. As much as I enjoyed the extra pampering of the Mango Hotel, I hope this doesn't mean that I will eventually lose my love of low budget, nomadic, where-the-wind-blows, devil-may-care travel.

The next and only morning in Mysore, had us being dropped off downtown for a few hours of sightseeing at the city's version of a farmer's market and shopping district. The farmer's market was one of the cleanest and nicest ones that we've been to in India and where I would definitely buy my produce if I lived here. The vegetables looked ripe and healthy, the flower stalls were vibrant, and the spice sellers fragrant. It was fun to wander the rows and take in the sights - even if we did have to continuously tell the perfume seller and hawkers of ground up colored powders that we weren't interested in their wares no matter how many times we passed by their stalls. All in all, it was fun little outing.

We said goodbye to Mysore all too soon (the Mango Hotel part if nothing else) and boarded an eight hour train for Chenni in the east. The train ride passed between reading, blogging, riddle solving, laughter, conversations with our fellow travelers, and way too much food (as supplied by the train operator as part of our fare).