Feeling Warm and Content in Fort Kochi

As we fly over the lush green vegetation of Kochi and feel the radiant heat of the sun warming us through the windows of the aircraft, we realize that the South of India is very different than the North of India.

We said goodbye to our travel companions of the last week and to the hustle and bustle, smog, and throngs of people; the heavy, aromatic curries, and the cries of street vendors and said hello to laconic days, warm, breezy weather, and the coconut infused favors of the south. Kochi, more specifically, Fort Kochi, is our home for the next two days.

Fort Kochi is in the western part of Kochi and part of the Cochin (which translates to like-China cause that's what the first settlers thought it looked like). This place is reminiscent of so many different places and cultures. Everyone in the group feels as if they are somewhere else, Thailand, Costa Rica, Mexico...all agree though that there is something magical and calming about this place. Fort Kochi is the most touristy areas of Kochi (in the Kerala providence), but it is wonderful. 

Currently, there is something called the Binnale that is in full swing in the Fort Kochi area. This is a multi year event where artists from around the world are invited to come. These artists either display art or create art that will then be displayed. There are many different venues throughout the area that host these various artists, with their sculptures, interactive pieces, paintings, and more. We were lucky in that it was a free day to visit while we wandered the streets and therefore we were able to experience the wonder that Binnale is. On a side note, there is art everywhere in this city: from a giant crab made out of litter collected from the sea, to a series of Hindu gods walking a tightrope up in the trees, to beautiful graffiti art painted on builds and declaring that "This is not Binnale!".

While in the Fort Kochi area we went on a walk about and were directed to some of the gems (read as touristy must-sees) this area has to offer. We visited the Saint Francis Church, where Vasco de Gama, the first European to "discover" India, was once buried. We also saw the Chinese fishing nets, which are the largest fishing nets in the world and one of the main tourist attractions in the area. The nets are amazing to behold with their simple, yet very functional set up of tied logs and a rock pulley system. The seafood caught from the nets can be purchased on the pier almost immediately or tried in one of the plethora of local restaurants. 

From the church we hopped in a tuk tuk and headed a short distance to Mattancherry, another section of Cochin. In Mattancherry, we viewed the Dutch Palace and its wonderful archaeological museum, meandered down Jew Street with its numerous shops touting their colorful wares, and visited the Jewish Synagogue. 

The Dutch Palace was actually built by the Portuguese in1555, but was later renovated by the Dutch in 1623 (after they took over the whole region) and took on their name. The Portuguese plundered a nearby Hindu temple, so they built the Dutch Palace and gave to the Raja of Cochin as a form of compensation and repentance. Today, the Palace is home to a series of Hindu Temples (only Hindus are allowed inside of them), and the archaeological museum. 

The archaeological museum was very well layout out, with signs in the area tongue of Malayalam, the national tongue of Hindi, and in the universal tourist language of English. The displays conveyed information about the royal family and the successive generations that lived in the region, the invasions/commingling of different groups of people and their influences as more and more Europeans took an interest in the area, and then about the abdication of the throne by the Royal family and the turning over of the land and government to the people. It was all really well done and I wish I'd had a little more time to read everything. 

One of the coolest things that I learned about in the museum though was that this was a matrilineal society. The bloodlines ran through the women and as such, women head a higher status and held more sway than they are afforded nowadays (especially after the Muslim influence that has spread throughout the country over time). 

Jew Town and Jew Street are more a tacky tourist trap than I was expecting. While the shops are fun to peruse and there are many trinkets I don't need, but that nevertheless caught my eye, it's hard to see what is supposed to be "Jewish" about this area. As we learned from our guide, Sanjay, and the guide at the Synagogue, there are only four families, comprised of seven members left in the Fort Kochi area. In all of Kerala (the region of India that Kochi is in), there are only 100 Jews. I guess when the numbers are that small, it becomes hard to see the individualization in between the money making gimmick that Jew Town brings. 

The Paradesi Synagogue is an Orthodox one that takes elements of Hindu and mixes them with elements of Judaism. The inside of the synagogue contains a pulpit in the center, ringed by benches for the male parishioners (the female members are relegated to the upper balcony and safely hidden behind a screen). The chandeliers are interesting contraptions made of glassware and metal, some are geared for oil, and some have been converted to use modern electricity. The color throughout the place is loud and expressive. All in all, I don't think I've ever been in a synagogue quite like this one. 

From reading about the Kalaripayattu martial art form at the museum, Em and I had an urge to go see a demonstration. We convinced a few of our fellow travelers to come with us and Sanjay arranged it. The Kalaripayattu martial art form is considered the oldest fighting form in existence. Originally the art form was just one thing that could be learned at a meeting and education house and was studied as a part of religion. Later, the warrior class began to learn the art and used it so that they could protect the state and the King.

There are four major components to the art form, which resembles a mix between, Kung Fu, yoga, acrobatics, and Capireoa. Practitioners must learn strength and stamina first. From there they are to master wooden weapons, then metal. Only after these first three steps do they learn hand to hand techniques. Those that rise the highest in the form, turn into a sort of priest and are forbidden from marriage and give their lives over completely to the practice and perfection of the art. The demonstration that we saw showed us a little of the four stages by a couple of young men that have been practicing for years. 

At the end of demonstration we were invited onto the floor and to handle any of the weapons (don't worry they were all dull edged practice weapons) that we wanted. Em, myself, and another woman that studied Tai Chi were the only ones that opted for this extra. The Kalaripayattu students asked us to show them something from our own styles and I taught one a very basic tambo warm up drill (high-low if anyone from Valhalla ever reads this).

After the martial arts demonstration, we went to a Kathakali performance with everyone in the group. This was something provided by the trip and considered one of the most renowned events in the region. To sum up Kathakali succinctly, it was one of more horrifically odd things I have ever seen in my life. This was performance art taken to a new level. Kathakali is considered an ancient art form that expresses stories of the gods (in a way like Native American Pow Wows). The actors wear large quantities of make up and ornate clothing. There is no talking by the actors, but their art is characterized by very exaggerated facial expressions and eye movements. These are coupled with mime like actions to belay the intended meaning of the act. 

As much as I find the concept intriguing and can appreciate the effort and talent that goes into each performance, the entire production was a little overwhelming and slightly frightening. Oregonian Josh had to grip my arm in alarm when the demonstration of eye movements went on a little too long and many of us envied Em when she just up and walked out. I'm glad I saw the performance, but I'll be equally as glad if I never have to see one again.

So the start of our Southern Indian Journey is off to a good start and tomorrow we live Kochi via train (yeah train) for Kallat in the north of Kerala.