Zagreb, Ljubljana, and Paris

Private Walking Tours and Broken Hearts

As we’re wont to do when arriving in a new city, we headed for the local free walking tour upon morning in Zagreb. We’d exchanged numbers previously with Mike and Vicki and they were set to meet us there. As we were waiting for the tour to start, we ran into Ann and Mary; who had arrived in town the previous evening. 

Five minutes before the tour was set to start, Mike comes running up to Em and I and informs us the he and Vicki have a private walking tour that they didn’t remember they’d booked. They asked us to come with them on their tour. So we arranged to meet up with Ann and Mary later and headed out on our four plus one (guide) tour. Our guide was a young, enthusiastic, and passionate girl that really knew her stuff. One of her favorite people was Archbishop Aloysius Viktor Stepinac, who many consider a national hero, while many others consider him a traitor. According to our guide, he saw the atrocities that were occurring during WWII and after when Croatia was part of Yugoslavia. He tried to help as many people as he could and spoke out against the state and those he thought were wronging the general masses. As a result, he was brought up on charges of being a Ustaše (a fascist regime that believed in a “pure” race in Croatia) collaborator and tried as an enemy of the State. At his trial, all 100+ witnesses in his defense magically didn’t show up. He was found guilty and sentenced to jail. His sentence was eventually commuted to house arrest. When he died in 1960 there were traces of arsenic in his blood (whether this is a result of poisoning or from the blood letting practices of the 1950s is the subject of many conspiracy theories). Today, his body is interned in Zagreb Cathedral and there is a small museum next door that tells about his life.

If any of you have actually been reading my blogs entry by entry or at least all of them, at one point or another, you might remember that back in Cavtat, that a few of us wandered to the top of the hill to see a cemetery that had a mausoleum for a family I know nothing about. Additionally, you may remember the statute of the naked man that stands high up on a pedestal in Belgrade because it might have affected the sensitive dispositions of the wealthy ladies of the time. Turns out that these two items were both designed and created by the same person, Ivan Meštrović. 

Well today on our walking tour of Zagreb we discovered a bit more about Meštrović. It turns out that he was the most prominent Croatian sculptor, as well as a renowned author, architect, and well known for his political beliefs. He lived for a very productive portion of his life in Zagreb and is cherished by the people of the city. 

In addition to Zagreb loving him, he exhibited around the world, was friends with Nikola Tesla; taught, lived, and eventually became a citizen of America, attempted to help Archbishop Stepinac when he was unjustly thrown in jail by the Communists, and so many other things. He was truly a fascinating individual. Unfortunately, by the time I figured out how cool Meštrović was, his workshop was already closed for the day and Em and I couldn’t visit. 

After our tour, we thanked Mike and Vicki for allowing us to join them and parted ways. Em and I headed to the Museum of Broken Relationships. This museum was created by a couple (that I don’t think are together anymore) and is comprised of objects from relationships and personal stories from the people that left those objects as to how they relate to a failed relationship. The items and stories on display are ever changing as anyone can submit to the collection and the curators will design different themed exhibits at different times. Currently, there is only room to display about 15% of all the objects received. 

Going through the museum is a bit like being a temporary voucher into other people’s lives. I liked how all the stories related to each object were written in the prose of the author. Some stories were short, some long, some funny, and some tragic. I definitely recommend this museum if anyone makes it to Zagreb; maybe even bring an object to add to the collection.

After the museum, we wandered through Grič Park and Grič Tunnel (an ex-bunker that no is used as an underground pedestrian walkway from the Upper city to the Lower city) on the way to the Archaeology museum. The archeological museum in Zagreb is wonderful. This museum houses a large collection of Egyptian scrolls, jewelry, sarcophagi, and four mummies (which they are super ecstatic to point out). Additionally, there are exhibits on the various towns in the area that were excavated and what knowledge archaeologist have gleaned from them.

After the archaeology museum, we had some time to just wander the lovely streets and then get a bite to eat.

Trakošćan Castle and Varaždin 

Upon arriving in Zadar, Em and I had been slightly dismayed when we realized that a castle we’d wanted to see was a bit outside of the city and not really accessible by public transportation. As a result, we’d booked a private car to take us. We’d tried to go on a tour but due to the declining tourist season, the agency we’d inquired at only had private tours. This turned out to work out well for us.

Ivica, picked us just from our hostel at 9 and drove us to the old city of Varazdin where he pointed out the castle and the old town and let us run free for a few hours. 

Varaždin is a cute little city in Northern Croatia that is known for its fantastic baroque architecture and the fact that it was the capital of Croatia in the 1800s (back when it was the Kingdom of Croatia-Slavonia). 

Em and I took a tour of the Varaždin Castle; a medieval castle whose construction began back in the 14th century and lasted for over four centuries, as it was built and rebuilt several times in different architectural styles. In 1925 it became home to the Varaždin City Museum. Its walls hold several collections such as historic documents, glass, clocks, ceramics, weapons, and fascinating rooms furnished in several different styles and chronologically displayed starting from Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Empire etc.

The Castle is also surrounded by a moat, but Em and I couldn’t figure out how this particular moat was helpful as the castle was situated on the lowest point and the berms were about 30ft high, above the plane of the castle.

The end of tourists season was also felt when we arrived in the town center, as there were a lot fewer people out and about (most appeared to be locals) and many shops were closed. We wandered around a bit, read some of the informational sign posts on various buildings, grabbed some lunch, and went to find Ivica to leave for Trakošćan.

Trakošćan was built in the 14th century but no one really knows who owned it back then. There are records of several military personnel having possession of the house for short periods of time. In 1584, King Maximilian gave the estate to Juraj Drašković and it stayed in his family until the mid-1800s, when it was abandoned. A hundred or so years later Juraj V. Drašković (a relative of the original Juraj) turned the castle into a residential manor-house, while the surrounding park was turned into Romanticist pleasure grounds. In the 1940s the house became property of the state and now is a historic museum.

Around the castle is a lake was started as a small pond, but was enlarged by  Juraj V. Drašković during renovations. The trail around the lake is now about 3 miles and possesses various points of interest that are told to you via information signs from the fairies (the people of this area were superstitious and liked the idea of an Earthen creature relaying information. We didn’t quite have enough time to walk the entire circuit, but we walked far enough that we were able to enjoy the tranquil waters without other humans around.

Ivica was kind enough to drop us at the train station upon our return to Zagreb. At 6:38 we set off for Slovenia, our last Balkan country (at least for this trip). Because Slovenia is part of the Schengen part of the EU and Croatia is not, border control came down the aisles of the train and we were able to get an additional stamp in our passports.

We arrived in Ljubljana and headed for Celica Hostel; our home for the next three nights. This hostel is located in the alternative section of town and used to be a Political Prison. Originally, Em and I had planned to stay at a different hostel, but the chance to bunk down in a prison cell converted into an art piece was too much to pass up. Our cell was designed with one bed on the floor and one lofted above, a desk and chair, and a sculpture on the wall that resembled books on a shelf. Additionally, the artist added mounted papers talking about the treatment of prisoners in various countries. 

The hostel is located on an ex-military compound that was set to be torn down after the last war. At the time, many youths and NGOs had started “squatting” in the buildings in protest and stating that the government had granted the buildings to them. There were a few years of back and forth, but now, it seems the punks, artists, do-gooders, and outcasts have won. The entire area is a huge open art canvas, with sculptures, graffiti, and murals all over the place. While the area looks very suspect and numerous people will offer to sell you drugs, it is safe.

Castles Built for Safety and Not Comfort and Caves That Go On For Days

Due to the way the connection for our flight home to the States was, we ended up having to sacrifice a day in Ljubljana for a day in Paris. This meant that two all day trips we’d originally planned, became one super long trip (with a slightly different itinerary). Em had really wanted to see Lake Bled and Bled Castle and I had really wanted to see Predjama Castle and Postojna Cave. The tour we found combined both sites.

In the morning we visited Bled Castle, overlooking Lake Bled. The castle is the oldest castle in Slovenia and a huge tourist destination. Walking the lake and visiting the the church dedicated to the Assumption of Mary on the small island in the middle, are some of the other highlights of this small town. At the church, you’re supposed to climb the 99 steps of the old Baroque stairs to ring the bell for good luck (Em and did not visit the island so no extra luck for us).

Of the five people on the day trip, Em and I were the only two that wanted to see the castle; so we dropped the other three at the lake at the base of the hill and continued to the top. When we got to the castle, there were reenacters there and we got to watch some archers prancing around each other, holding a competition for the best. At one point they invited all of the school children there on a field trip to try their hand at it.

The castle serves as a museum and has some great exhibits related to the history of the area. Additionally, they converted on tower into a wine cellar and one into a honey shop, so Em and I were both super excited and may have spent a bit on local products. The last thing of note for Bled Castle is that they have a reconstructed Gutenberg printing press where a master printer will explain how the press works; about Slovenian Protestant reformer Primož Trubar who visited the castle and wrote the first books in Slovene and Catechismus and Abecedarium (both printed in 1550 on a Gutenberg Press); and he’ll print you something if you pay for it.

In addition to the castle, you can’t go to this area without trying the Creme Cake. This cake is a 7 cubic centimeter cube of custard, cream, and light flakey crust deliciousness. The fact that we enjoyed our slice at the castle, while looking out over Lake Bled, didn’t hurt one bit.

In the afternoon, we drove back through Ljubljana, picked up an additional couple, and headed out to Predjama Castle and Postojna Caves. Predjama Castle was built for protection rather than for comfort. It is an exemplary example of man made creations and nature being combined harmoniously. The original castle started inside a natural cave and then expanded over time (as funds became available) to have true buildings. 

In the 15th century, the castle became the home of knight Erazem Lueger. Lueger got into a conflict with the Habsburgs and became a robber baron and local “Robin Hood”. He ended up being besieged in his castle for over a year, but due to a secret vertical tunnel, he was still able to supply the residents of the castle with food and to continue to rob the local Habsburg towns during this time.

Erasmus may have survived longer, but a greedy servant sold him out for some spare coins and one night when Erasmus went to visit the loo (the least fortified area of the whole castle), the servant signaled Leuger’s enemies and they blew up the loo and Erasmus with it. Game of Thrones liked this death so much they used it to kill off one of their main characters.

From the castle we headed to Postojna Cave. Postojna Cave is an extensive karst cave system that is the second largest in the country. The cave system is 24 kilometers long, but tourists only see about 3.5 km. There are three levels to the caverns, but many areas of the top level have collapsed and the bottom level is not fully explored yet. 

While there is evidence that the cave was visited as early as the 13th century, it wasn’t until the the 17th that it was really studied and written about. In 1819, with the visit of Archduke Ferdinand, it officially became a tourist destination. It was deemed such an important destination that it received electrical lighting before anywhere else in the country (including the capital).

Tours into the cave start with a 2 km train ride that whip you by cavern after cavern with beautiful colors and large columns, curtains, and other features, and deposit you in a huge chamber from which everyone is divided into smaller groups by language. Your guide then takes you at a fast clip around a 1.5km trek, relaying interesting tidbits along the way. Maybe because they have a schedule to keep in order to get the most people through or maybe because of time constraints due to being the last tour of the day, but I felt our guide just continued to briskly walk and didn’t allow you to truly see or experience the wonder of the cave. As a result, we lost her relatively early on and ended up having to hurry at the end to catch the last train before they left us there for the evening.

Why Does Everything Open So Late?

Our last day in Ljubljana. We thought we’d get up early in order to see as much as possible. Seems that in the shoulder season this was a silly idea. We were walking around at 7 am in the freezing air and the rest of the city slumbered until 10 or eleven. At least at 9 am a few restaurants opened and we were able to get a bite to eat and warm up some. 

Our plan for the day involved another free walking tour, where we ran into Ann and Mary again (as we suspected would happen). The four of us trotted along behind our local guide, but we were less than impressed with the tour in general. It seems that the most notable things in the city were all designed or renovated by the same person, Jože Plečnik, who was all the guide really talked about. 

Besides Plečnik, the guide did mention the Dragon’s Bridge. The bridge is considered one of the best examples of reinforced concrete bridges and of the Vienna Secession style. There are various legends surrounding the bridge, including that women are supposed to walk across it before marriage as a sign of purity. If they are pure, the dragons will raise their tails or wink.

After our not so thrilling walk through the town center, the four of us hiked to the Castle. The castle has a main courtyard around which there are different galleries, a restaurant, and a viewing tower. The gallery that turned out unexpectedly to be great was the Museum of Puppetry. This was a hands-on museum that told you about the history of puppets in the city and Slovenia as a whole and allowed you to play with different puppets and different styles of theater. The four of us reverted to children and had a grand time. 

Also in the castle, there was an exhibit on dragons that went through the mythology related to them throughout time and how these stories differ in different cultures. At the end you got to solve a riddle and find the dragons elixir. It took us a second to figure out how to play the game (cause there were no directions), but eventually we deciphered the answer.

After the castle tour, Em and I parted temporarily from Ann and Mary in order to go on a graffiti walking tour. But first, we wandered back through the “Open Kitchen”, an every Friday food market where many local restaurants open stalls and sell items from their shops. It’s like a food truck convention, but with stalls instead of trucks. 

I had wanted to try rolled ice cream, which I guess is a new thing popping up around the world (Em said it’s taken over in LA and we saw it in Hvar). While enjoying some rolled ice cream (which is delicious), I got side tracked watching this guy make a huge vat of a pancake type thing...pancake goodness with raisins and browned sugar butter, all simmering together on a huge cast iron skillet. 

It took about 20 minutes to make each batch and we were three people from the front of the line when they ran out of the first batch. Having waited so long already, Em and I were willing to miss the graffiti tour to get our pancake goodness. We got our plate of deliciousness (topped with Nutella and some sort of berries) with two minutes to spare and a ten minute walk to the meeting location. Running along the riverfront, trying to alternatively eat our little bit of heaven and miss colliding with the hordes of other tourists, we arrived just as a group of people were leaving the meet up point. We caught up to them and found out it was in fact our group.

The graffiti tour turned out to be a little different than we’d originally thought. It was led by a young man that was heavily linked with the whole alternative scene and most likely a graffiti artist as well. I was expecting to see giant colorful murals like I’ve seen in other countries and learn about the meanings behind them. And while we eventually saw some of those at the end of the tour, the majority of the tour taught us about the different types of graffiti that are put on walls, from tags (the ugly signatures that are considered the lowest form of graffiti, but vital to have to get your name out) to throw ups (which are quick pieces that can be done in a pinch but have more to them than tags) to masterpieces (the murals I love). We learned what it means when others mark on top of your work and how not all street artists use spray paint. The tour overall was very informative, and while I still think the majority of scrawls I see desecrating buildings is ugly, I can understand it a bit better.

We ended our day, our exploration of Ljubljana, and the Balkans portion of our trip with a nice middle eastern dinner out with Ann and Mary.

Aww Paris

Due to flight issues when originally booking, there wasn’t a way to fly home all in one day, therefore we had the chance to shop around and figure out which major European country we wanted to spend a day in. Paris was the winner.

Paris is the capital of France, one of Europe's major centers of finance, commerce, fashion, science, music, and painting; home to 12.5 million citizens, and “The City of Love.”

This last day started out pretty poorly in that Em and I arrived in Paris and wandered to the baggage carousel only to find out that our bags were missing. We’d seen them be put on the plane, but the unhelpful baggage agent insisted that they never came into the country. We had to fill out missing baggage paperwork and then just hope that the bags showed up. 

So with only our day packs (thankfully with everything important and most everything valuable) we headed by train to our hostel. About this time, a reoccurrence of the illness Em had had in Kotor made itself known and she steadily lost energy as the day progressed. 

After a brief respite at our hostel, Em felt well enough to venture out and we ended up wandering the Seine a bit before arriving at the Louvre. Since Em’s energy was failing and Paris is huge, we opted to get on one of those open topped tour buses that take you around the major sights of the city. As much as I’ve mocked these in the past, it turned out to be a great idea. We opted for one that did a two hour loop around the heart of downtown and provided random tidbits of information at various locales. If you have little time and aren’t up for walking far, I highly recommend this as an alternative.

In the evening we shopped for some bare essentials since our bags still hadn’t shown up at the hostel and then Em retired for the evening. We didn’t quite get the gastronomic day that we’d envisioned, but it was as pleasant as circumstances would allow. 

The next morning, bright and early, as we were preparing to depart for the airport, we were greeted with the wonderful sight of our bags. It turns out the airport had located them and dropped them off around two in the morning. Em and I think that because we put them in colorful laundry bags to protect all the straps from getting caught on things, that someone thought they were linens or some such. Either way, I am glad to note that the trip ended with our stuff safely returned. 

Until the next adventure.